Jami al-Hamoda Mosque

This aged and revered mosque is difficult but rewarding to find. The low-lying prayer hall is unique due to its profusion of 52 domes. Non-Muslims aren't permitted to enter, but it's possible to gain a vantage point across the mosque roof from the neighbouring buildings. A falaj (irrigation channel) used for ablutions runs through the courtyard and goats assemble in the shady lanes nearby. Getting to the mosque is half the fun as the road rides the fault line between settlement and sand.